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The Other Side of Kerala

Text by Rekha Janardhanan
Photographs by KC George
 
Cochin described as the Queen of Arabian Sea, is the commercial hub of Kerala, the most literate of all the states in India.

It is the largest harbour and the densest populated city in Kerala — and it's expanding industrially and commercially, as well.

Urban migration (from rural areas and from neighbouring states) in search of employment coupled with unplanned urban expansion attribute for the menacing growth of slums and the rise in urban poor population.

Covering an area of 94.88 sq km, the city is traversed by a maze of canals and sub-canals, all discharging into backwaters. The backwaters divide Cochin into two zones: the western zone comprising Fort Cochin, Mattancherry and Palluruthy, and, the eastern zone consisting of Ernakulam, Edapally, Vyttila and Pachalam.

 
 

Nearly two lakh people, approximately 35 percent of the urban population in Ernakulam, live in 281 odd slums where poverty is quite high. Only 20 percent have regular work throughout the year.

Infrastructure is rather poor and many families are deprived of basic services. Environment-related diseases are widespread — so are problems of drug abuse and reproductive health.

 
 
Exuding an uncanny grace and dignity, 60- year-old Ammukutty Amma is silent, resilient and stoic — her world is bound in lawsuits.

The sight of the dismantled aristocratic ancestral home at Vaduthala in suburban Cochin still ruins her heart. Adjacent to its crumbling walls Ammukutty has built a tiny roof for herself when she became a widow twelve years ago.

Ammukutty struggles to make both ends meet by doing household chores in neighbouring homes. It is the nostalgic memories of the past and the sheer lust for life that keeps her ticking.

 
 
In the case of Rajamma Lawrence from Palluruthy, the bitter past behind has only urged her to seek a better tomorrow.

Mary Celine's ardent faith in the divine powers at the nearby Nadakkal temple had influenced her into adopting the name Rajamma. Poverty has only made her more vocal and assertive.

Puppies whimper, squirm and squeak while dogs create chaos in the wayside shack, her home. Virtually a kennel, she shares the encroached spooky den with her husband Lawrence — and nearly a score puppies, ready for sale.

Rajamma refuses to budge from her den near the temple premises and so the Government cannot rehabilitate her elsewhere. She keeps her neighbours guessing about her association with the temple Goddess. "They think that I am endowed with magical powers," exclaims Rajamma.

 
 
Rajamma's innumerable petitions to the Government, demanding a decent shelter, pile up unanswered. They have only spurred her to send more.
   
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